Bealach na Ba (Pass of the Cattle)

Our hostess, Caroline, at the Drumbuie Farm is a great cook & conversationalist.   From the breakfast room we can look down on the village and Loch Ness.   Very nice setting.

The drive from Drumnadrochit to our next stop on the northern Applecross Peninsula is one of the most interesting adventures we’ve had.   The road is known as ‘Bealach na Ba’ which is Gaelic for ‘Pass of the Cattle’ and is considered one of the most scenic drives in the world.   The road is a historic and quite famous pass through the mountains of the Applecross peninsula.   Bealach na Ba was used in earlier days to drive cattle from Applecross and surrounding settlements to other parts of the Highlands.   Crossing the Bealach na Ba is an adventure for several reasons.   This single-track road has some scary Alpine-like hairpin bends and steep gradients – some over 20%.   The biggest challenge is keeping one’s eyes focused on the road and not on the breathtaking scenery.   There is a warning sign that says that this road is not suitable for learner drivers, caravans and very large vehicles and is closed in winter.  Adding to the fun, we were stuck behind a large group of cyclists peddling up the road with no way to pass them for miles.    Our driver (Dick) never got past 2nd gear and probably stalled the manual shift vehicle a dozen times or so.   Whew. Absolutely incredible views, especially of the island of Skye once we reached the crest of the pass.

The proprietor of the Applecross Inn  (in Applecross – where do they come up with these names?) is Judith Fish, a good friend of Caroline’s from Drumbuie Farm!   The inn is a well-respected craft beer and dining establishment that sits on the bay with views of Skye.   Our weather is quite nice and a local motorcycle group is taking advantage of the sun and outdoor seating to spend the afternoon at the tables along the bay.   A nice trail through a Birch forest is a few blocks from the inn. Our room is quite nice and dinner lives up to its reputation.

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